All About Rose

Wine with Etienne – “Pretty in Pink” Edition (April 2026)
 
Dear Readers,
 
We are starting to see the first signs of the changing of seasons here in Ottawa: temperatures mostly above freezing, snow on the ground slowly turning to slush and mud and the Toronto Maple Leafs eliminated from playoffs. Truly, Spring is in the air. In anticipation of trees blossoming and flowers blooming in the coming months, I thought we could explore one of the most fun and refreshing warm weather wine categories out there: rosé.
 
There are many styles of rosé, ranging from dry to medium sweet, pale pink to deep pink-orange (salmon), still or sparkling, and everything in between.
 
The level of sweetness is decided either by the region/appellation or by the winemaker for each specific rosé they make based on the intended market: both who will drink it and where/how it is likely to be consumed. As with other types of wine, the most acceptable and widely practiced method for having a style with some residual sugar is to stop fermentation before the wine gets too dry. This means slightly lower alcohol and slightly higher sugar. All that said, dry styles of rosé are far more common than sweeter styles.
 
As for colour hue and extraction, there are several factors that affect this:

• Grape variety(ies) – different grapes have different levels of colour compounds in their skins
• Level of acidity of the grapes when crushed – there is a theory that more acidic grapes yield a pinker colour, while lower acid grapes give salmon to orange wines
• Climate and soils – related to the two points above, cooler climates and certain soils are less conducive to strong colour pigmentation in grapes than warmer climates
• Production method – some are more likely to draw out more colour from the grapes

 
For the method of production, specifically, there are 3 main ways to make a rosé, all of which require black grapes (used to make red wine):

• Direct pressing: black grapes are crushed and pressed before fermentation, as though they were going to make a white wine. The use of grapes with more colour compounds in the skin allows this method to provide a small amount of colour and not much tannin to the wine. This method is common in Provence, where you might see a term like “vin gris” used to describe a very light wine; a small percentage of white grapes may even be used in production, if allowed within the appellation. These wines are often dry with a light salmon/pink colour.
• Short maceration: black grapes are crushed and allowed to macerate to extract flavour/colour. This is more similar to how a red wine is made, but the maceration is stopped early, and the juice fermented at low temperatures to stop that extraction. This method is common in Tavel, France and is sometimes referred to as the “saignée” method. It is popular as a cost-effective option for producers who also make red wine from their grapes, since the fruit can be harvested together and simply treated differently in the winery. These wines have a deeper pink/orange colour and stronger flavours typical of black grapes (such as red berries), with lower acidity than wines made from direct pressing.
• Blending: this method consists of mixing white wine and red wine together before bottling. It is not allowed in most wine regions, though it is possible to co-ferment white and black grapes, which is another process entirely and a growing trend in the New World (it has been done in Spain, France, and other places for much longer). Where the blending method is allowed, however, is in Champagne, Franciacorta, and Cap Classique (South Africa), all of which are sparkline wine appellations.  

 
So, now that you know how rosé is made, which one should you try? The answer to that, as always, is all of them. Here are some tips on how to find the right match for you:

• A typical Provence rosé is very light, barely orange/pink, high in acid and with very light flavours. They’re also great with food (summer salads, raw or lightly cooked seafood, light pasta dishes) or just to sip.
  • Chateau d’Esclans and Gérard Bertrand are significant producers of this style, and you shouldn’t have too hard a time finding decent examples in the $15-20 range (or more if you love the style and want to splurge). That said, producers around the world make wines in this style. I just had a Zweigelt-based direct-pressed rosé from Austria that was simply delightful!
• Tavel rosé is one of my favourite styles. Deep orange/pink wines with intense fruity and lighter spicy notes and a hint of tannin. They’re a bit weightier on the palate but nonetheless refreshing and are excellent for food pairings – think cheese platters, salade Niçoise, mussels, paella, chicken, grilled fish, even lamb.
  • A similar style rosé from Cigales DO in Spain really impressed me recently and is now on Trio’s menu! I hope you’ll have a chance to try it soon.
• California is known for off-dry styles of rosé made from Zinfandel. If you were a fan of this before those wines became unavailable, check out Rosé d’Anjou and Cabernet d’Anjou, both from the Loire Valley in France, which are made with different grapes but in a somewhat similar style.  
• It would be an injustice for many hardworking winemakers around the world if I didn’t mention that there are lots of other options for still rosé. Spain makes lovely Garnacha- and Tempranillo-based rosado, Portugal produces rosés in both the Vinho Verde and Port categories, and every other major winegrowing country also produces its own versions. If you’re a fan of rosé in general, make sure to explore all these options!
• Lastly, don’t forget that rosé can also be sparkling! To add a touch of pink to your next celebration, try a rosé from Champagne, Franciacorta, Cap Classique, or another New World sparkling to get your fix of effervescence.

 
Of course, if you cannot (or do not wish to) consume alcohol, there are a few options out there. Proxies makes amazing alcohol-free “wines” – including a few very nice rosé-style examples – that pair excellently with food. Some dealcoholized rosés include the Leitz “Eins Zwei Zero” rosé (Germany), Sangre de Toro 0.0% (from Bodegas Torres in Spain), and one of my favourites, Thomson & Scott’s “Noughty” Sparkling 0% Rosé. If you do choose to imbibe, please do so responsibly. Please do not drink & drive (or paint your entire home bright pink, unless that’s your thing, I won’t judge).
 
Stay thirsty everyone, and enjoy Spring!